Diseases & Illnesses of Turtles & Tortoises

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Abscesses: Abscesses are common in turtles, particularly in the ear where they will appear as a lump on the one or both sides of the turtle's head. Treatment involves lancing and draining of the infectious material, combined with antibiotic treatment. Usually the wound will be left to heal uncovered and unstitched, so the post-operative environment must be kept exceptionally clean. Ear infections can be caused by prolonged respiratory illness, while other abscesses may be caused by a bite, cut, or other injury.

Constipation/Impaction: If your turtle or tortoise has not passed fecal material, or is having difficulty in doing so, constipation can be treated with a 30 minute soak in warm water just past under the chin. Fiber should also be increased in the diet. If this doesn't help, or if constipation is accompanied by lethargy or breathing difficulties, you may suspect colon impaction. This occurs when the animal ingests some foreign object (accidentally or on purpose) and it becomes lodged in its colon. It can also be caused by severe worm infestation. The water treatment described above may help temporarily, but if the condition persists, the animal must be treated by a vet. Impaction is potentially fatal.

Cracked or broken shell: Seek veterinary attention immediately. All shell injuries are potentially life threatening.

Egg binding: A female turtle can become egg-bound if correct conditions for egg-laying aren't provided. Provide mature females with a proper nest site (or several), plenty of calcium and natural sunlight, and keep stress to a minimum. If these conditions have been met, but she still has not laid her eggs, she may exhibit the following symptoms: reluctance to walk, lethargy or depression, pacing or straining, lack of appetite (especially), vomiting, or prolapse. Egg-bound turtles will need an x-ray for proper diagnosis and your vet can offer the best treatment.

External parasites/eggs on skin: You can remove things likes chiggers, ticks or maggots with tweezers, then clean the area with disinfectant and apply antibiotic ointment. It is important to remove any source of insects from the enclosure to keep the condition from recurring. Don't allow food to rot in the enclosure. Check any previous wounds your pet may have to make sure they are treated and covered. Flies are attracted to blood and may attempt to lay their eggs inside the wound. If insect larvae or maggots are already apparent under the skin, see a veterinarian about removing them and treating secondary infections. Mites can be washed off with soapy water or treated with any number of commercial mite treatments available. Furnishings inside the enclosure should be treated as well, or replaced.

Fungus/Shell rot: Shell rot is caused by a fungus or bacteria infection. It is very serious, and if left untreated, can lead to other diseases and infections. The infection will begin if fungus or bacteria is allowed to enter cracks in the shell. Signs of shell rot include discoloration beneath the surface of the shell, soft spots on the shell, and a foul smelling discharge around the soft spots. To treat this yourself, remove the thin layer of peeling keratin from the affected area, then gently clean the bone with betadine cleanser or povidone-iodine, and apply Gentocin or Polysporin ointment. Repeat for three days. Then paint the affected area with 2% gentian violet every other day until it has dried up. Protect the area with a bandage so it stays clean, but make sure air can get to the wound. Keep the turtle out of water except for necessary soaking and to eat. If the area of shell rot is large, the animal should be taken to a veterinarian that treats reptiles. To prevent shell rot, fungal infections (white or gray spots or tufts on skin) should be treated as soon as they are observed. They can be treated with OTC fungal medications that are used for tropical fish in aquariums. Clean and disinfect any cuts on the turtle's shell, and apply triple antibiotic cream immediately. The enclosure should be kept as clean as possible, and all feces and uneaten food should be removed at least daily. The water should be changed daily, or sooner if soiled.

Hexamitiasis: This is a highly contagious disease often found in stressed, poorly housed animals. Symptoms can include lack of appetite, weight loss, lethargy, and thickened urine with a pungent odor. Lack of treatment will lead to renal failure, and then death. Proper diagnosis and treatment by your vet is necessary. Any suspected/possible carriers should be quarantined from other individuals for no less than 6 months.

Internal parasites: These are often difficult to diagnose, but a regular check of your animals feces will clue you in when something unusual is going on. If your turtle or tortoise is experiencing diarrhea with no obvious cause (for example, diet changes high fruit intake may cause diarrhea) then you should take a fecal sample to your vet for examination. Other symptoms that may indicate worms are vomiting or lack of appetite. A vet can tell you what type of parasite your pet has and what to use for treatment. The dosage will be based on weight. Treatments containing Ivermectin or Piperazine are fatal to chelonians. The treatment of choice is usually Panacur, in a paste form that can be applied to food and easily administered. A regular oral worming treatment should be given twice a year (spring and fall) for the best prevention.

Irregular shell growth: Symptoms of irregular shell growl will appear as lumpy shell or a shell that grows only on one side. The head may also look abnormal, and you may see the beginnings of an overgrown beak and/or long nails. These symptoms may be the beginning of metabolic bone disease (MBD) and can have serious long-term effects on your pet. To a degree, correcting your husbandry practices can reverse irregular shell growth. Check your turtle or tortoises' diet and nutrition level. Is it receiving the corrected amounts of protein, fat, and vitamins? If it is not kept outside, is it getting enough simulated sunlight with a full spectrum light? Make these corrections immediately to prevent further deformity and the onset of MBD.

Lack of appetite: A turtle or tortoise may stop eating for quite a few reasons. If this is your situation, check your husbandry first. Proper temperatures? Clean environment? Quality and variety of food? In late fall or winter, your pet may just be going into a normal hibernation phase (whether you hibernate them or not). Breeding females may become more preoccupied with laying their eggs than with eating, and this will rectify after laying (if it doesn't, see egg-binding). If your husbandry is good, and the other cases do not apply, check for other signs of illness. If your turtle or tortoise begins losing too much weight, or the problem lasts more than a couple of weeks, see your vet. Do not try to force-feed any animal unless you're sure it's absolutely necessary (and it usually isn't).

Mouth rot/Stomatitis: Mouth rot is characterized by cheesy white or yellow matter growing on the tongue or inside the mouth. It may also appear as blood blisters on the tongue. In early stages, you may notice excess saliva or coughing. Stomatitis is a secondary infection, uncommon in turtles and tortoises, but serious when it occurs. If mouth rot is suspected, you must take your pet to the veterinarian for treatment. Proper environmental conditions and cleanliness will reduce the risk of this infection.

Overgrown nails/beak: A turtle or tortoise's nails should be trimmed regularly with a clean, sharp pair of clippers, similar to the way a cat or dog's claws must be kept short. You may want to get instruction from a trained vet or groomer if you've never done this before. Beak trimming/filing should only be done by a trained professional. Overgrown nails and beaks can also be caused by a nutritional deficiency. Check for other symptoms such as a soft bridge or shell, or dry peeling skin. If you notice any of these, see a vet.

Paralysis: Paralysis may occasionally occur in the legs of chelonians. There can be several causes, and usually must be determined by a vet. It could be caused by a severe injury, malnutrition, or it may be caused by a birth defect. In most cases it is irreversible. Proper diet and care are essential to help prevent serious illnesses such as this.

Prolapse: Organ prolapse is when a turtle's organs (usually the colon or reproductive organs) "turn inside out" and protrude through the cloaca. It is more often seen in land specimens than aquatic ones. Occasionally this behavior is normal and rectified quickly. If the animal does not retract the organs on its own, treatment may be required. If you suspect a prolapse, soak the animal in clean, warm water for 30 minutes. This will keep the organs clean and may correct the problem. If not, seek veterinary attention.

Respiratory infection: Symptoms include difficulty breathing, breathing with the mouth open, discharge or mucus in the nose (bubbles appear in nostrils), frequent sneezing, lethargy, and lack of appetite. Preliminary treatment of these symptoms should be to increase the temperature of the enclosure to at least 85 degrees and eliminate any cold drafts from the room. If this is an aquatic turtle, make sure the water isn't too cold. Check your pet often to see if the symptoms improve over the next couple of days. If they do, continue treatment until the turtle is 100%. If the symptoms do not go away, or get worse, see a vet immediately. Respiratory infections can accelerate to pneumonia quickly, and will usually be fatal.

Scratches, cuts, and bites: Minor flesh injuries, including ones on the shell, can be treated with a topical disinfectant or antibiotic. Clean the wound daily with a disinfectant such as betadine or chlorhexadine. Deeper wounds should be covered with a bandage. At the first sign of infection, including redness, swelling, or a foul smell, apply an antibiotic ointment. If the injury does not look better in a few days, take the animal to a veterinarian. Any injury that cracks the shell, causes excessive bleeding, or shows bone should be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

Septicemia (Blood Poisoning): This is a severe, body-wide infection caused by a minor infection left untreated. It is also common in egg-bound females left untreated, as the eggs may eventually cause a rupture of organs. Redness of the skin and/or plastron, bleeding, or pooling blood inside the shell are all signs of septicemia. Aggressive antibiotic treatment is required to treat these serious cases
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Swollen/closed eyes: This is often caused by a respiratory or other infection, but may also be due to a lack of nutrition, lack of sunlight, or dehydration. First check for signs of a respiratory infection (below) and treat accordingly as soon as possible. Any kind of discharge from the nose, or other signs of infection should be dealt with by a reptile veterinarian. Otherwise, try soaking the animal in warm water for a few minutes a day to help rinse any pus out of the eye, or soften it if it has hardened. Raise humidity levels by misting the enclosure (a hospital enclosure should probably be used during treatment) and providing an adequately sized water dish. Swollen eyes are also a symptom of a Vitamin A deficiency. If this is a possibility, get a multivitamin supplement with Vitamin A, and include appropriate fruits and vegetables in the diet. Also be sure your pet gets plenty of natural, unfiltered sunlight daily. Injections of Vitamin A can easily overdose and should be used as a last resort.

source : http://www.klsnet.com/sickturt.htm